Osmo Oils For Your Floors

Osmo oils are the perfect finish for Australian Timber floors. Safe, durable and beautiful with easy maintenance.

There used to be 4 types of floor finishes. Oils, polyurethane, acrylics and waterborne polyurethane. Oils were always considered the least durable of all types of floor finish. This all changed with the polyx formulation from OSMO. These are hard wax oil formulations. Many oils are very poor in terms of wear. In fact their performance is extremely poor. Not so OSMO. In Western Australia OSMO oils have been used on holiday resort floors and many of these floors have been in use since 2006.

This level of performance hasn't been achieved by oils previously. Usually oils are quite well worn in two to three months but OSMO polyx oils wear much better. Being much finer ingredients and having excellent penetration to timber fibres the oils really offer protection.

Oils will darken the surface of the timber resulting in richer colours and warm mellow tones. There is nothing plastic about the look of the floors. They look superb.
 

OSMO Polyx Oil satin is a durable, low maintenance, satin, oil and wax finish for interior timber or cork flooring, as well as timber furniture including baby's cots, bassinets and playpens. Also suitable for exposed timber beams, sarking, paneling and timber benchtops. Suitable for a variety of timber types - both hardwood and softwood - such as Pine, Kauri, Oak, Eucalyptus, Teak, Jarrah and Douglas Fir (Oregon). It is perfect on all Australian timbers. [looks lovely on West Australian species.]

For timbers which are oily by nature, such as some species of Eucalypt, Kwila/Merbau and Rosewood etc, it is recommended that the timber's surface be wiped over with a solvent such as citrus turpentine to remove any oil present, before applying the Polyx Oil satin.

 

Polyx Oil satin is a satin floor finish based on natural oils and waxes, which penetrate deeply into the surface to enhance and maintain beauty and elasticity. As durable as polyurethane, and far easier to repair when scratched or worn down. Polyx Oil satin, once fully cured, will not crack, flake, peel, blister or water mark and is stain resistant against wine, beer, cola, coffee, tea, fruit juices, milk and water.

Easy to apply, with 2 thin coats being applied 12 - 24 hours apart. Sanding in between coats is generally not necessary. Excellent coverage rate of approximately 24 square metres per litre. The preferred method of application is by good quality bristle brush. OSMO's floor brush applicators are ideal. A low nap microfibre roller may also be used. Please read the data sheet for details.

 

Easy to maintain with any plant based soap such as OSMO's Wash and Care for damp mopping, and OSMO's Liquid Wax Cleaner for buffing the timber when needed.

Polyx Oil satin is available in 2 types - Normal or Rapid. Normal Polyx Oil would generally be used during the warmer summer months, and is dry in approximately 24 hours. The Rapid Polyx Oil should only be used in cooler condition where curing time may be an issue. Generally, the Rapid Polyx Oil will cure faster, with 2 coats able to be applied on the same day. The finish for both products is identical.

Our Triple Warranty

The VCS Triple Warranty

Our triple warranty is your guarantee of a job done well and a floor that will perform to expectations. While every stage of the process must be completed to a professional standard there are three critical stages in timber flooring. These are often overlooked. This undermines the potential performance of the timber floor. At VCS we feel strongly about timber floors being an investment in the future and so we take serious action to ensure that these steps are covered correctly.

For example continue the following before we outline our process in detail.

While there is always a legal warranty on flooring the fact remains that companies that are committed to the triple warranty are limited. (Most floors are compromised right from the start, but this is explained below.)

When we offer a triple warranty we are demonstrating our total commitment to following all of the steps required by the manufacturer. To illustrate the importance of this warranty approach consider this example. All packs of raw timber come with a warranty sheet that states that the timber should be acclimatised prior to installation. This process requires site metering with documentation that determines the acclimatisation point. Then the time required for acclimatisation can be calculated. This isn't guesswork. When the process is followed it greatly improves the performance of the floor in service. When this step is bypassed it gives the manufacturers warranty away right from the start. The whole floor is compromised. And this is just the first stage of the job. It is amazing how often this step isn't followed.

At VCS we are committed to giving you our triple warranty.

There are three key areas.

These stages are
Acclimatisation
Installation warranty
Sanding warranty

Acclimatisation
Timber is a living product in that it continues to react to climatic conditions long after the floor is installed. Addressing acclimatisation is a key factor in assisting the floor to look good in the years following the installation. This does NOT SIMPLY MEAN PUTTING TIMBER ON SITE FOR TWO WEEKS. There is a lot more to the process. Site measurements are essential. Only after these measurements are taken do we follow up and using our acclimatisation chart develop the acclimatisation plan for your floor.

Installations and Installation warranty
 Concrete needs some form of mechanical preparation which varies according to site and concrete condition. It requires a primer which aids adhesion and is moisture resistant protecting the underside of the timber from potential moisture ingress. It also requires a flexible adhesive which must be applied with sufficient volume to achieve both a full bond and high adhesion strength.


VCS on average use about 25% more adhesive under our floors in order to meet the standards required by the adhesive manufacturer which is a 'bed' of adhesive. While this adds to the cost of the floor it provides a very good floor.


Sanding and finishing. Sanding warranty

There are four essential stages in sanding being level, coarse, medium and fine. Medium requires two cuts. This results in a more even - level floor. Finish coats fall into two categories being domestic light weight and commercial heavy duty.

We use heavy duty oats because these last longer and look much better. There is nothing that undermines the look of a floor than a surface that looks lacking in finish when it should have a high build.




We now offer the worlds finest oil finish for flooring as part of our range being Osmo Polyx Oil finish. This oil looks sensational. In addition we offer Bona Traffic HD which is the toughest finish anywhere by approx 55% in a Satin and Matt finish.

These steps are accompanied by our warranty on each stage.


We use approximately 25% more product under the floor and around 20% more finish on top of the floor than our competitors. Because we do a full sand we use on average 25% more sanding consumables.

Because we are willing to do this we give you a much better floor despite maintaining a competitive like for like pricing structure. You be the judge.

We hope that you now see why our approach is different to our competitors.
And why it's worth talking to us about your floor.

Heritage Grade Blackbutt

Heritage Grade Blackbutt

Blackbutt is an ever popular timber for flooring. Eastern States Australian Blackbutt is a hard wood. It is one of the range of Australian timbers that have a proven track record for use in flooring.

Usually timber is supplied in three grades being Select, Standard and Better and Feature grades. These grades relate to the amount of features from gum that occur in the face of the timber.


Heritage is termed an all in grade taken from good quality logs. There is a good quantity of logs available and this is very good quality timber. It has a good mix of select through to feature and tends to balance as a Standard grade. It is incredibly good value. Each pack/delivery varies only slightly. We suggest that you take a look at the timber when you are considering a Blackbutt floor. We have used it throughout Perth and it has been praised for being very well machined and well graded.

At VCS we have used a lot of this timber.

Blackbutt With Gloss Finish

This new grade is very popular and we expect to see a lot more. We have received assurances that this we be an ongoing range.

Tallowwood Floor In Beautiful Wide Boards

The brief for this floor included two stair cases and three levels of flooring. In addition the client wanted to do the job himself. Tall order.

So how did we do it?

At VCS Products Real Wood Flooring we run DIY courses and Matt attended these to learn both how to install the floor and how to sand and finish. He found the workshops invaluable, especially at just 3 hours in length. In addition he was able to draw on the practical experience at VCS.

The initial stage was slab preparation and because Matt understood what was needed the slab had a thorough sand to remove any contaminants. It was then sealed with Sika MB to achieve a really good working surface. The timber was acclimatized using our site test method to ensure correct performance.

Matt fabricated the nosings onsite to ensure that the stairs looked good. As usual the concrete work wasn't that great but because they were prepared correctly the steps look excellent.

 

The timber was supplied by VCS from our NSW mill along with all the materials saving Matt approx 55% of the cost of a full installation. Matt attended the class in sanding and was able to hire the sanding machines from VCS as well as getting the Bona Traffic finish to ensure good floor colours and great longevity. Sufficient timber was supplied to fabricate skirting. 

We think that Matt did a great job. He took his time and was able to work to the methods covered in the workshops. This is a great looking floor. Working with timber is very satisfying. This is a great result.


If you would like to install a floor why not sign up for a workshop?
Please email us for more information

Marri Flooring Is Beautiful

Marri

Marri is a West Australian Hardwood.  It has light to mid tone coloring with pale brown tones, yellows, reddish browns and occasional shades that are greenish. A lot of effort is required in the drying stage to get Marri to dry correctly for use in timber flooring.  Indeed, it took a lot of time for the industry to develop a suitable drying process.  It is particularly important that Marri is on-site for a reasonable length of time to acclimatise.   As a preliminary suggestion a minimum of three weeks appropriately stacked inside the house would be advisable in the case of an older home.

The timber has a high proportion of gum veins and therefore it is difficult to apply standard grading rules to this hardwood. It has a lot of dark veins and care should be taken if these are over 20mm wide and run through the timber as the honey-combing is quite weak. Stuck to concrete this is OK but it must be firmly in place as this is clearly a weakness. Standard and better grades do usually have a higher proportion of wide gum marks. With Marri there will usually be more gum evident than other species.

Sanding; Marri is a hardwood. Sanding machines are very effective when used on this timber. It can be sanded to a very fine finish suitable for all finish types. Whereas with some timbers there is a large range of density from piece to piece, Marri is more even and therefore it is possible to achieve a very even finish at the sanding stage. Marri feels fibrous when sanding and requires some time to ensure a good result. Additional time may be required with the rotary sander and the tradesman needs to allow for this.

Marri accepts most types of coatings. Solvent based finishes in two packs and single packs have been used for a long time with this species. Marri darkens considerably with some solvent formulations and this needs to be explained to any client. Waterborne finishes also work well with Marri though there is a need to work quickly as sometimes shading can occur. It is important to determine the correct sealer with waterborne finishes as shading can be dramatic with the wrong base. Oils have been used extensively with Marri with good effect. It should be noted that due to the high density of Marri the oil coverage may need to be varied significantly for a good result. Often oils are tested on more open timbers such as Oak and the take up of oil is greater on these species. Applying too much oil on Marri can cause problems with a blotchy finish that doesn’t dry out. Oil on the gum veins can cause slow drying. Liming is a popular notion however it is difficult to obtain the correct take-up of solution on Marri due to the high density and the fibrous pattern.

Generally Comments.

Marri is a proven Australian hardwood that is ideal when used in flooring. It wears well, looks excellent and is good to work with. With filling the black gum marks have caused some discussion. Some sanders fill the marks black whereas others use a clear resin. Still others don’t fill the gum marks at all. This needs to be decided prior to sanding.

Marri Flooring.

While Marri can be quite clean in appearance it can also feature a high proportion of gum vein. Look at the packs when selecting Marri to settle your mind on this point.

Jarrah Flooring is Superb

Jarrah

Jarrah is a West Australian hardwood. It ranges in colour from dark brown and red through to pink tones with some white in places. The timber is widely used and well known in Australia. In some countries the timber is sold as Swan River Mahogany or Southern Mahogany. The timber is good to work with. Jarrah needs to be on site for at least two weeks to acclimatize to the surroundings. This is important as Jarrah is a dense timber and therefore adjusts slowly to localized conditions.

Sanding; Jarrah is a hardwood. Sanding machines are very effective when used on this timber. It can be sanded to a very fine finish suitable for all finish types. Whereas with some timbers there is a large range of density from piece to piece, Jarrah is more even and therefore it is possible to achieve a very even finish at the sanding stage.

Jarrah accepts most types of coatings. Solvent based finishes in two packs and single packs have been used for a long time with this species. Waterborne finishes also work well with Jarrah though there is a need to work quickly as sometimes shading can occur. A few types of sealer have been shown to overcome these issues such a GF and Prime. It is important to determine the correct sealer with waterborne finishes as shading can be dramatic with the wrong base. Oils have been used extensively with Jarrah with good effect. It should be noted that due to the high density of Jarrah the oil coverage may need to be varied significantly for a good result. Often oils are tested on more open timbers such as Oak and the take up of oil is greater on these species. Applying too much oil on Jarrah can cause problems. Liming is a popular notion however it is difficult to obtain the correct take-up of solution on Jarrah due to the high density.

Bentley Technology Park Floor

Technology Park Bentley 

Our brief was to freshen up the site. Not a full re sand but to brighten the dull floor.  The area has a lot of foot traffic and is serviced from several entry points.

It was vital for our team to be on time. Also very tidy and meticulous with preparation. The centre cannot afford lots of down time.

Heath from our installation division explained the process thoroughly and set up the logistics while Niel provided the technical advice re coating choice and use.We required just one day for the work and  it has really improved the look of the entry. Total area is around 150m2.


The centre is very happy with the result and the floor looks as promised. Freshened up. It's always good to have a bright fresh foyer and this one looks great!

Karri Harder Than Jarrah

Karri

Karri is a West Australian hardwood.  It has a brighter colouring than Jarrah with rich reds and pink tones and is often sought be people who want the colours of Jarrah but want a brighter floor. The timber is widely used and well known in Australia. In older floors it is often mixed with Jarrah. The timber is good to work with. Karri needs to be on site for at least two to three weeks to acclimatize to the surroundings in older established homes. This is important as Karri is a dense timber and therefore adjusts slowly to localized conditions. Karri is usually dried slowly for best results.

Sanding; Karri is a hardwood. Sanding machines are very effective when used on this timber. It can be sanded to a very fine finish suitable for all finish types. Whereas with some timbers there is a large range of density from piece to piece, Karri is more even and therefore it is possible to achieve a very even finish at the sanding stage. The grain of Karri often runs in straight lines as the timber is quarter sawn though it looks more interesting when plain sawn. Karri feels fibrous when sanding and requires more care than Jarrah. Additional time may be required with the rotary sander and the tradesman needs to allow for this.

Karri accepts most types of coatings. Solvent based finishes in two packs and single packs have been used for a long time with this species. Waterborne finishes also work well with Karri though there is a need to work quickly as sometimes strong shading can occur. It is important to determine the correct sealer with waterborne finishes as shading can be dramatic with the wrong base. Oils have been used extensively with Karri with good effect. It should be noted that due to the high density of Karri the oil coverage may need to be varied significantly for a good result. Often oils are tested on more open timbers such as Oak and the take up of oil is greater on these species. Applying too much oil on Karri can cause problems with a blotchy finish that doesn’t dry out. Liming is a popular notion however it is difficult to obtain the correct take-up of solution on Karri due to the high density and the fibrous pattern. OSMO oils look great on Karri as do finishes such as Bona Traffic & Traffic HD.

Generally Comments.

Karri is a proven Australian hardwood that is ideal when used in flooring. It wears well, looks excellent and is good to work with. Termites are attracted to Karri and you need to maintain good perimeter protection around a Karri floor. Several of the stories about Karri and termites have legendary proportions.  There are a lot of stories about timber floors that have been damaged by termites.  Having said this during my 20 year association with the timber flooring industry in Western Australia I have seen very few Karri floors that have been affected by termites where proper perimeter protection as being maintained around the house.

Australian Chestnut

AustralianChestnut

Australian Chestnut is a blend ofAustralian hardwoods found extensively in Victoria. It is a mix of tall trees whichprovides excellent timber for flooring. The colouring is pale brown to deepbrown. The timber has tones similar to eastern states Blackbutt but hasslightly darker tones reminiscent of real hardwood.

Sanding;Australian Chestnut is rated as a hardwood. Australian Chestnut  is an easy timber to work with. Sandingmachines are very effective when used on this timber. It can be sanded to avery fine finish suitable for all finish types. Sometimes with softer timbersit is harder to see rotary marks that will need sanding out so it is vital tocheck for these carefully. If in doubt sand through to a much finer grit thanusual such as a 180grit or 220grit mesh.

AustralianChestnut accepts most types of coatings. Solvent based finishes in two packsand single packs have been used for a long time with this species. Solventbased coatings bring out the deeper colouring. Waterborne finishes also workwell with Australian Chestnut. When using waterborne finishes it is importantto follow closely the coating manufacturer’s instructions for burnishing thegrain.  Oils have been used extensivelywith the timber with good effect. The timber has an open grain and is abeautiful timber.

AustralianChestnut accepts liming solution which sits into the open grain. If usingliming solution it must be applied only once as the result of too much solutioncan look like a painted surface.

General Comments.

AustralianChestnut is a proven Australian hardwood that is ideal when used in flooring.It wears well, looks excellent and is good to work with.

How To Maintain Your Timber Floor

Timber floor maintenance

Once a timber floor is installed it will be necessary to take steps to maintain the surface.  Many of the finishes used today have a longevity that is remarkable however it is not a case of simply finishing a floor and forgetting the maintenance; there are basic steps that are necessary.

This is especially true in the commercial setting where often there is limited time for maintenance in the schedule.  If maintenance is not a priority with the solid timber floor in the commercial setting then this choice of flooring is probably inappropriate.  In a commercial setting with much higher foot traffic maintenance takes on special meaning.  It is essential.

Thankfully, maintenance steps are relatively easy and simple to perform working within some basic guidelines.

The exception to this is a floor that is finished in oil where there are specific guidelines provided by the manufacturer of the oil.  Oil is designed essentially to wear with the floor and therefore you should consult the specific requirement for additional coating as part of the maintenance procedures.  Because there is such a huge variety of oils and in a number of cases these do not work too well with the hardwoods in Australia this is something that should be established in conjunction with the manufacturers. Some oil systems such as OSMO have purpose designed maintenance systems. Use of these may result in a very good long term floor.

Basics common to all floors.

1         Grit, dust & sand should be kept to an absolute minimum.  It will be necessary to sweep the floor regularly to maintain a grit free environment.  Grit or sand that is crushed under a leather soled shoe for example will abrade the surface of the floor.  Keep it to a minimum.

2          It is a good idea to use a vacuum cleaner however you should note that some of the bristles on the heads of commercial and domestic vacuum cleaners can be quite stiff and can even scratch a polyurethane surface.  You must ensure that the bristles used on the brush head are appropriate for use with a timber floor.  Very often this information is not available in the place where vacuum cleaners are purchased and you may need to seek additional information from the distributor or manufacturer.

3          Additional maintenance steps include the use of a damp mop.  You should never flood a timber floor with water assuming that the sealer used on the surface is waterproof.  In the majority of cases polyurethane sealers are not waterproof.  Therefore a well wrung out mop is essential, keeping the water used to an absolute minimum.

With oiled floors the surface is waterproof but the same rules apply. Excessive water can result in a blotchy surface. Water should always be kept to a minimum.

4          When it comes to the question of what to use in the water to maintain the timber floor the simple guideline is that this should be a "non-residual cleanser" or a product that will not leave a residue behind on the floor.  For example, some cleaning products contain soap and it is quite easy to leave a slightly sticky surface behind on the floor.  If this occurs then grit will be trapped on the surface making it difficult to maintain the area using a sweeping brush or vacuum cleaner.  Some cleaning contractors have reported that when using some materials the floor seems to get dirty more quickly and the common cause is the use of something residual in the water.  Purpose made non-residual timber floor cleaning fluids are very effective and are usually an economical choice.  Some are supplied in concentrated form which means that there are also suitable for use in removing scuff marks which are generally harder to remove than the usual small markings.

5          Sometimes polishes are recommended to extend the life of the floor.  These are sacrificial mop on products that put a protective surface on top of the pre-finished or polyurethane coated material.  They are sacrificial in that they will wear instead of the coating.  These are often part of a commercial maintenance system and are widely used with a high degree of success.  If deciding to use a polish it is recommended that you check to ensure that there is a product that is supplied by the manufacturer that will "strip" the polish from the surface when it comes time to re-sand the floor.  If there is no recommended system for removing the polish this can interfere when it comes time to resurface the floor.  Virtually all resurfacing materials that are available will not adhere to any remnant of polish that is left on the surface.  So when checking on the use of a polish you should also be careful to check that the polish will not interfere with the long-term maintenance of the timber floor.  Some coating manufacturers also manufacture polishes and these are usually designed with the long term life of the floor in mind. With polishes there is a lot of information available and it is good to seek advice.

Mats, Matting & Entrances

The Three Pace Rule

At the entrance to a home there needs to be a method of catching grit. Mats are an excellent choice in these locations. A simple mat however may have little or no benefit. When selecting mats try to have in mind a design where people entering the home take three paces on the mats; such as by having a small mat out side the home and a larger one inside. This principle will greatly reduce grit ingress into the home.

In commercial locations it is impractical to have clients entering from an external area directly onto a timber floor. With no steps taken to reduce grit there will be accelerated wear. [The level of wear may reduce the life of a floor coating from years to weeks. It is a critical area of a floor.] No maintenance program devised can avoid this outcome. Therefore mats to entrances are essential.

The Ten Pace Rule

At entrances to commercial sporting venues the idea is to keep as much grit as possible away from any sports surface. Sports surfaces are generally larger than 500m2 and therefore a full re-sand of the surface would be costly. Carpeted areas and matting/grating options should be explored. If possible plan to allow for ten paces to be taken on another surface to reduce grit. This can play a good role in extending the life of a floor. Not everyone visiting a sports centre will necessarily visit a changing room to change footwear and therefore the more time spent walking on a surface that may remove grit the better to outcome.

Scuff Areas

There are areas in any building where there is excessive wear. In a home the key areas to watch are entrances, main traffic areas & kitchen floors. In all of these areas there is greater wear. In front of the kitchen sink the wear can be 20 times greater than in the general floor areas. A mat is a logical requirement.

In commercial buildings it has been noted that areas near counters where people are served are scuff areas and there is usually accelerated wear at these points. Fixed mats are required to extend the overall life of the floor.

In the home it is good to take note of areas of the floor that may be wearing quickly. These are obvious scuff points and the use of decorative matting is a superb option.